Wheel Bearings

Most of the wheel bearings sold through Ultimate Garage are from the original equipment manufacturers, FAG and SKF. The bearings include the mating race or hub although other installation hardware is detailed and recommended.

Worn wheel bearings will make a groaning sound which can often be heard when coasting in neutral down the road. Loading the bearing will increase the sound....ie, turning left loads the right bearing and vice-versa. If the noise appears to be coming from the rear and does not change loudness when cornering, the CV joints are suspect.

Its always a good practice to do both sides when replacing wheel bearings.

Front Wheel Bearing Replacement

Changing a front wheel hub/bearing assembly is a 20-30 minute job (per side) on just about any E30/E36, E28/E34 or E24/E31/E32 with the special tools (will take a little longer with generic pullers and drifts). Most shops charge 1-1.5 hours per side to do the job. The labor savings by doing the job yourself will help defray some of the tool cost.

Below is "my" procedure with references to the tools and products that I use in parentheses (see pricing below)...you can substitute your own tools & chemicals.

(1) Remove the wheel and spray the caliper retainer screw with penetrating oil (Wurth Rost Off). Remove the caliper and hang from the strut with a wire or bungee cord.

(2) Hit the rotor retainer screw with a 10mm drift punch (eg, Facom 0249.G10)...this should loosen the rust and allow the screw to come out with an allen socket (SK41404 or SK41405). Remove the rotor.

(3) Remove the bearing outer dust cap (eg, Facom DR11).

(4) Using a punch or needle nose pliers, bend the locking tab on the retainer nut so the nut can be removed. Using an impact gun and the appropriate socket (SK34086 for 36mm or Facom K46HA for 46mm), spin off the bearing retainer hub nut.

(5) Attach special tool (BMW tool #312100) with the appropriate attachment for your car and pull the bearing/hub assembly off the spindle. If the race detaches and hangs up on the spindle, pull it off with a long finger puller (eg, Facom U301).

(6) If the inner dust cap appears undisturbed, you may leave it in place (new caps are included with the bearing kits if replacement is necessary).

(7) Attach special tool (BMW tool #312110 or 312120) to the spindle and press on the new bearing assembly. Note, if you buy an SKF bearing, you'll have to remove the plastic retainer piece that keeps the race from separating from the ball bearings during transit...the FAG units are all set to install.

(8) Install the new 36mm or 46mm nut...torque to 210 ft lbs (Facom S206-350). Use a chisel (eg, Facom 265.G18) to split the locking collar of the hub nut and bend it into the spindle slot.

(9) Re-install the outer dust cap (a new one will look much nicer...these are supplied with the bearing kits above), brakes, wheel (clean the heavily oxidized aluminum from your road wheels and apply some anti-seize compound to prevent the aluminum wheel from bonding to the cast iron hub) and you're done. Torque the wheels to 100nm (110nm for track use).